Quality craftsmen to the retail jewellery trade 

 

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The following information will be useful when dealing with jewellery repairs.

The customer should be told any relevant information regarding their repair and it should be recorded on their repair receipt.

 

Ring sizing

 

·         All ring sizing where the ring has to go up more than one size has gold added.  It is KJS policy to always use clean refined metal when fitting pieces, no re-cycled metal from other jobs or metal that has been re-melted from scrap or lemel will ever be used.

·         One size up or down equates to 1mm width of shank.

·         It needs to be remembered that not all rings are suitable for everybody. This is true of many ladies rings especially if they are requested in very large sizes. You are far better off to tell a customer that you will not be able to make a particular ring in their size than to raise their expectations. You can then steer them in the direction of something you can get in their size. 

·         When accepting a ring alteration it is important you write down the size the ring is now and the size you would like it adjusted to e.g. Size from L for Lemon to M for Melon. 

·         Some ring shanks will appear thinner when sized. This is not always the workshops fault. The gold is always added to the base of the shank when sizing up. The piece of gold that is added will be the same thickness of the base of the shank. Quite often the base is the thinnest part of the shank. This will have the effect of elongating the thinnest part of the shank making it look thinner.

 

Red(rose) gold rings

 

·         When red gold rings are sized it is likely that the customer will notice a  slightly lighter colour where it has been soldered. This is due to the fact that at present it is not possible to produce a red gold solder that matches the colour of the red gold used for the shanks exactly.

 

 

Patterned wedding rings

 

·         Customer's need to be advised when they are having a pattered wedding ring sized (either up or down) that it may not be possible to match the pattern exactly. Every effort of course will be taken to hide the join.

 

 

The re-tipping of claws

 

·         All stones need to be removed before re-tipping can be carried out. If they are not removed then it is likely that the stones will shatter or become damaged in other ways. Even Diamond, Sapphires and Rubies can suffer heat damage.

It is our policy that all stones are removed before any re-tipping work can be carried out.

It is our policy that the whole of the claw is replaced and not just the top of it (known as blobbing).

·         Single claws should only be quoted for on relatively new rings where the damage has occurred as the result of an accident.

·         Single claw replacement on worn rings can result in the claw being returned with a much higher profile than the rest of the claws on the setting. This will look completely out of place and the customer will not be satisfied with the claw work.

·         If the claws are re-tipped and need rhodium plating this will be included in the price.

·         Cluster rings, eternity rings and any rings with a fancy setting will need to be sent for an estimate for claw work.

·         If the customer has an already damaged stone that needs replacing and it is in a rub over setting, then the easiest way to get the old stone out without damaging the setting will be to break up the stone. If they want the old damaged stone returned (for sentimental reasons) it may not be returned intact.

 

 

Shank replacement

 

·         Matching up to the shoulders including engraving is covered in the price.

·         Rhodium plating of the head and shoulders  is included in the price.

·         The minimum shank that we will replace is a 1/4 shank. We can also replace the whole shank if necessary.

·         All hallmarks, engraving or identifying features on the customer's original shank will be lost. The customer must be informed of this prior to taking in the repair.

 

 

Necklet and Bracelet joins

 

·         It is advisable to find out if the customer has a matching chain (or bracelet) when you are accepting for repair. This is because the chains are quite often gilded to achieve an acceptable finish. (Gilding is very fine gold plating) Although the workshop will do what they can to return it looking the same colour, there may be a difference.

·         It is not in the customer's interest to accept lightweight or worn our necklets for repair (they are likely to break shortly after and be returned as a complaint.

·         Customer's must be advised their necklet/bracelet may be slightly shorter when it is returned from repair. (The workshop has to cut the chain back to a sound link).

·         In the case of rope chains this can be up to half an inch per break (If the chain is badly damaged where broken then this can be up to an inch).

·         In the case of Figaro links we may have to remove a whole link to be able to re-join it. In this case there are two options, 1. To just re-join the chain. The pattern could be uneven and shorter or 2.   To replace the damaged link. The link will have to be solid, as it is impossible for the workshop to effectively make hollow links.

·         Always measure the chain in front of the customer and comment on any unusual lengths.

 

 

Soldering jump links and charms

 

·         Do not cut closed jump rings with cutters in order to attach the item to a necklet or bracelet as the workshop will probably have to replace it.

·         It is not advisable to solder the open ring on a bolt ring, as this will weaken the steel spring that holds the bolt in place, therefore making it inoperative. Where possible a closed ring bolt ring should be used with a bolt ring to attach it to the end link.

·         The charge for the first charm is greater because the price includes the cleaning and the polishing of the bracelet and charms after the soldering has been carried out.

·         If the bracelet contains any charms with paper inside, or that are painted, enameled or with applied transfers then we will not be able to polish them as well (to protect the charms). The customer will need to be advised of this when they are leaving them for repair.

·         Any damage to the charms must be noted on the receipt.

·         All the charms must be listed by description (to prevent any problems should the bracelet be returned with any missing).

·         Check for any jump rings on the bracelet.

 

The following also needs to be taken into account:

 

Porosity

 

Some rings can have porosity. It is most commonly found where the sprue joins the shank. More porosity can appear when it expands under heating. Staff will need to examine rings carefully for signs of porosity before they take repairs in, or send new rings for sizing. Always remove the stock ticket so that you can check properly. Also, if the ring should have a hallmark, then make sure it has one before you send it.

 

Brittle metal

 

This especially applies to some wedding rings. To make wedding rings thinner but still able to withstand squashing, the gold is made harder. This can cause problems, especially when sizing.

 

Wax filled jewellery

 

It can be identified by being quite heavy and with a seam running round it. When repaired it has to be drilled to let the wax drain off. If not, the item will explode when heated. It will therefore be lighter when it returns.

 

Faulty chains

 

If the chain is breaking up in several places and it does not appear to have been badly pulled, then it is likely that the chain is faulty. There is little point sending the chain to be repaired if this is the case.